Editor’s pick

GTJ: a snowshoeing route across the Jura mountains

France has a great deal of mountain resorts dedicated to winter sports. However the practice of snowshoeing meets a growing public. Like hiking in summer, snowshoeing is more like an adventure: in direct contact with the environment and with an incomparable feeling of freedom.

Recommended snowshoeing itinerary

The great crossing of the Jura is a winter snowshoeing itinerary (also possible in crosscountry skiing) from Metabief (Doubs) to Giron (Ain). The complete itinerary makes 115 kilometers, but feel free to customize it. Altitude of the trek is between 940 and 1390 masl.

Day 1 : Métabief – Rochejean : 12 km D+ : 645m : D- : 511 m

Day 2 : Rochejean – Mouthe : 13 km D+ : 220 m ; D- : 430m

Day 3 : Mouthe – Chaux Neuve : 7 km D+ : 200 m ; D-: 100 m

Day 4 : Chaux Neuve – Chapelle des Bois : 11 km D+ 250 m ; D- : 210 m

Day 5 :Chapelle des Bois ; Bois D’Armont : 11 km D+ 360 m ; D- : 380 m

Day 6 : Bois d’Armont – Prémanon : 16 km D+ : 230 m D- : 130 m

Day 7 : Prémanon – Lajoux : 14 km D+ : 380 km ; D- 360 km

Day 8 : Lajoux – Bellecombe : 11 km D+ 300 m ; D- : 230 m

Day 9 : Bellecombe – La Pesse : 8 km D+ 290 m ; D- 260 m

Day 10 : La Pesse – Giron : 13 km D+ 340 m D- 500 m

Download GPS track

Along the trip, you can enjoy some cultural and gastronomic breaks : museums, Comte producers, ice-skating,

Access

Access by public transportation are possible, with train/bus connections.

Access via Frasne (From Paris to Lausanne or Paris to Bern). Connection by coach to Métabief.
Access via Morez (Dole – Saint-Claude – Bourg-en-Bresse), 12 kilometers from Chapelle des Bois
La Cure (Swiss) (Nyon – Saint-Cergue – la Cure), 2 kilometers from Les Rousses and 3 kilometers from Prémanon.

Check the national railway company website for schedule.

Accomodation

Accomodation is possible at each stage of the route, either on hostels, refuges, guestrooms, hotel or resort centers.

Try to book before you leave. Accomodation available in Métabief, le Gros Morond, la Petite échelle, Mouthe (1,5 km), La Source du Doubs, chez Liadet (2 km), Chaux Neuve, la Combe des Cives, Chapelle des Bois, Sur Les Lacs, Chalet Gaillard, Bois d’Amont, les Rousses, Prémanon, La Cure, La Frasse, Lajoux, Lamoura (3 km), Les Molunes (1 km), Bellecombe, Les Moussières (3 km), Le Berbois, La Pessse, Giron.

Cheese

The Jura (as many mountain area in France) is a great place to try a variety of cheese : do not miss the Comte, but also try the Mont d’Or, the Morbier or the Bleu de Gex.

Before you leave

As any activities in mountains in winter, snowshoeing may be dangerous. Be sure to check weather conditions and avalanche risks before you leave. Prepare you backpack with enough food, hot water and warm clothes. Avalanche transceivers may be necessary in some cases. Of course, do not forget your map and compass.

Snowshoeing markings

Trail markings is generally in place from mid-december to end of March. It is a yellow and pink design. Do not get confused with crosscountry markings.

A pass is now required to enjoy your trip. Fees include a participation for the markings, accesses to restrooms and pic-nic areas. Cost is 20 € / person for 1 week.

Before you leave, get in touch with the association Grandes Traversées du Jura which take care of the itinerary. They can provide you with some maps, list of accomodation, guide books, etc.

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Hiking tips Inner guide

A spectacular 5-days hiking trip through the Ecrins National Park

This guest article presents a spectacular hiking-trip through the Ecrins National Park. The stages are quite challenging, and we recommend you to be in pretty good shape and carry light equipment. 5 days – 102 km – cumulated evelation gain : 5 330m – GR54 markings.

GR54 through the Ecrins National Park

This great adventure will bring you through some of the most striking views in southern French Alps. Indeed, you will be able to watch some of the glacier des Ecrins, like the famous La Meije. Start from Bourg d’Oisans and arrival in Argentière-la-Bessé.

GR54 itinerary

Trail markings

The trail usually follows the red and white markings of the GR 54, with two main exception:

Pay attention, as the GR 50 and GR 54 have the same markings
After Vallouise, the main trail heads West, while you will need to find your way to Argentière via the Pousterle pass

To find our way we use the IGN maps:

3336ET: les 2 Alpes/Olan/Muzelle
3436ET: Meije Pelvoux

Access by public transportation

Access to Bourg d’Oisans by bus n°3000 from Grenoble bus station
Train station at Argentière-la-Bessée. Trains go to Briançon or Valence (via Gap) where you can take a connection to Paris, Lyon, Marseille, etc.

Detailed itinerary

Day 1: Bourg d’Oisans to Clavans: 20 km, 1300 meters of ascent

Arriving the day before in Bourg d’Oisans (720 masl), we stayed in one the campsite of the little town. The trail starts climbing after the Sarenne waterfall. The ascent is quite risky, all the more since we had heavy backpacks. We often need to use handrails. An alternative route is now possible (follow yellow markings until you reach ‘La Ville’).

Arriving near Huez, the trail crosses an old stone-bridge before following the river. After lunch, we finally reached the Sarenne pass (2000 masl) where we could admire the breathtaking view on the Meije glacier.

We then start our descent to Clavans, and pitched our tent between Clavans-le-Haut and Clavans-le Bas (1365 masl).

If you arrive early enough in Clavans, you may choose to continue to Besse. After the village, a camp site has been installed for hikers (toilets and water available).

Day 2: Clavans to La Grave

The second day starts with the small ascent to Besse (1550 masl). Do not hesitate to fill up all your bottles in the village, as the ascent to Emparis (2 200 masl) is long. The Emparis plateau is a very nice and green pasture area with stunning views on La Meije. Feel free to make a detour to the lakes before starting the descent to la Grave (1470 masl) via Le Chazelet.

Day 3: La Grave to le Casset

La Grave is the famous starting point for free riders, offering a 2300 m descent of wild snow. The GR54 passes by the campsite (where we stayed for the night) and heads towards Villard d’Arene before entering the heart of the Ecrins National Park. The trail climbs to the refuge of the Alpe de Villar d’Arene (2 077 masl), continues in the middle of an inspiring unspoilt nature and reaches the Arsine pass (2 348 masl). The descent passes by some lakes, where the bravest can take a bath. We continue our descent and pitched our tent before Le Casset.

Day 4: Le Casset to Vallouise

The GR54 now enters the Serre-Chevalier valley, a famous ski resort area. At Monetier-les-Bains (1 490 masl), you can stop 2 or 3 hours (or more…) in the thermal baths and buy some food. As for hiking, the trail heads South towards the Eychauda pass (2 425 masl). It then enters the beautiful Chambran pasture area. The trail continues its descent to Vallouise (1 170 masl), where you can find campsites and a brewery (!).

Day 5: Vallouise to Argentière-la-Bessée

The GR54 heads west but to reach L’Argentière, we had to climb to Puy-Saint-Vincent and reach the Pousterle pass (1 763 masl). After a few kilometers, we then reach L’Argentière-la Bessée (990 masl) (train station name: L’Argentière-Les-Ecrins).

Equipment

We carry our tent and cooking equipment. We pitched our tent in a camp sites when possible (Bourg d’Oisans, La Grave and Vallouise). The itinerary does not require a great autonomy, as it passes by villages or refuges, where you can buy food. We tried to always have food for 3 meals + breakfast and it is enough. Water may be more of a problem, and we were happy to carry some water-purifying tablets with us.

Accomodation

We choose to carry with us our camping equipment. However, hikers can find refuges and guest-houses on their way:

Clavans le Bas
Besse
the Mouterres
la Grave
Villard d’Arene and the refuge at the Alpe de Villard d’Arene
Le Casset
Monetier-les-Bains
Vallouise

Chambran pasture in the Ecrins

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Hiking tips Inner guide

GR91 through the Vercors and ascent of Grand Veymont

This post is a guest-article about a 3-day hike through the Vercors‘ Natural Reserve. It presents some key features to help you prepare this great adventure in autonomy.

A North-South itinerary through the Vercors

The chosen itinerary starts in Corrençon-en-Vercors and ends in Chatillon-en-Diois. It is inspired by the GTV (Great crossing of the Vercors). We first follow the GR91 to the South (day 1, red and white markings), before heading west at Jasse de la Chau to climb to Grand Veymont (2341 m). Once on the Grand Veymont, the path climbs to the summit, heads south again, passes through the Plaine de la Queyrie and connect to the GR91 at Pré Peyret (day 2). Then the path continues to the South and arrives in Chatillon-en-Diois after a steep descent (day 3).

Access by public transportation

Departure from Grenoble

At first, we planned to stay overnight in the gite d’étape des Hauts-Plateaux located in Corrençon-en-Vercors. However, our train for Grenoble broke down and we missed the last bus to Villard-de-Lans and Corrençon-en-Vercors. We stayed overnight near the train station in Grenoble and took the first bus the next day.

Grenoble is the main access gate for our itinerary. It is well connected to Paris and Lyon by train.

You have three main options to start the trek:

Start hiking from Grenoble and climb to Villard-de-Lans via Saint-Nizier-du Moucherotte, in approximately 2 days
Take the bus 5100 (schedule) from Grenoble main station and start hiking from Villard-de-Lans
The bus 5100 continues to Corrençon-en-Vercors on-demand the day before 12 am. Call 0820 08 38 38 to make your booking. As for us, someone else in the bus made the booking so that we could benefit of the service to Corrençon-en-Vercors.

Arrival in Chatillon-en-Diois

Once in Chatillon-en-Diois, you can stay overnight in one of the camp site or guest house or choose to leave. Then you have several options to connect to the train station of the town of Die. Die is located along the line Briançon-Valence. From Valence, frequent connections to Marseille, Lyon and Paris.

Take a public bus to Die by bus 29, but the frequency is low (schedule)
Hitch-hike to Die
Call the Transdrome public service (0810 26 26 07) to book a taxi (book in advance, not working on Sundays). It will cost you 5 € per person and drop you at the train station. The condition is that you have a train connection in Die. We book this service on Wednesday for the Saturday and were happy with that, despite the fact that the taxi was slightly late.

Step by step

Day 1

We took the bus 5100 in Grenoble at 7.40 and arrived in Corrençon-en-Vercors around 9.00. After a coffee and water refill at the golf club house, we started hiking near the golf course and passed by the biathlon stadium. We stopped after Darbounousse for lunch. The path then climbs in the canyon des Erges before reaching the cabane de Jasse du Play. As we carry our tent, we choose to continue our route, refill water at the Fontaine du Playe and stayed overnight near the Fontaine de la Chau, at the foot of the Grand Veymont, where we arrived around 17.30

Day 2

The second day, we started hiking around 8.30 and left the GR91 markings to turn left and start the ascent of the Grand Veymont. We arrived at the top around 10.30. After a steep descent, we stopped for lunch in the lovely Plaine de la Queyrie. We refilled our bottles in Pré Peyret at the Fontaine des Endettés and continues to stay overnight near Les Quatre Maisons de la Ville.

Day 3

Leaving around 8.30, we started the day climbing to Laval d’Aix, an area covered with many strange holes of all sizes. We reached the cabanes de Chatillon for lunch, witnessing a group of alpine ibex. After lunch we started the challenging descent to Chatillon-en-Diois, where we arrived around 3.30 pm.

Some issues on the GTV

Sleeping

In the Vercors, the cabane are a kind of non-guarded refuges with very little comfort : one table and a wooden floor to sleep, sometimes a fireplace. No booking, so that you may not find a place available if you arrive too late.

Should you decide not to camp, you can spend the night the first day at the cabane de Jasse du Play, which can host up to 10 persons. on the second day, you can stay at the cabane de Pré Peyret (up to 10 persons) at the crossing of the GR91 and GR93. Alternatively, head to the cabane des Chaumailloux, a picturesque refuge on the way to the Pas de l’Aiguille. The third day, you can stay at the cabane de Chatillon or in the village of Chatillon-en-Diois.

If you decide to camp, as we did, be aware that pitching your tent is only tolerated from dusk to dawn.

Water

During these three days, you will not encounter any village. Get your meals with you. Water may be rare, especially during summer. That is why peak season for this trip is May and June. We brought 2 bottles of 1 liter per person and it was enough, as most of the sources were not dried up. But fill up your bottles as often as you can.

Maps

A guide book is edited by the Vercors Natural Regional Park and available in most local libraries and tourist information centers.

Guidebook GTV

Even if the markings are clear and frequent, you may need a compass and maps. Two IGN maps are required for the entire trek:

Top 25 – 3236 : Villard-de-Lans, Mont Aiguille, PNR du Vercors
Top 25 – 3237 : Glandasse, Col de la Croix Haute

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Destination Destinations The Alps

Maurienne: a valley to the heart of French Alps

The Maurienne is one of France’s greatest alpine valley. It benefits from a strategical position between France and Italy which brings together tragedies and progress. Today, the upper-valley is a paradise for nature and traditions lovers linked to the Vanoise National Park.

From elephants to power plants

The Maurienne is a 120 km valley forged by the river Arc. Its geography turns it quickly into a strategic position for communication and defense. Historically, the valley is one of the possible routes that took Hannibal, the Carthaginian general, and his elephants to cross the Alps and invade Rome. Later, the valley was the theatre of many fights, from French Revolution to WWII.

Down in the valley, numerous hydropower plants were installed, benefiting from the characteristics of the river Arc. That led to the installation of power-intensive industries like aluminium or other electrochemical plants. A major road and railway between Lyon and Turin (Italy) run through the valley via Modane and the Frejus tunnel.

XXL hiking trails

Somehow rough and dry, the upper-valley, with easy access from Modane, is a paradise for hikers. Many refuges and mountains huts enable multiple days hikes in breathtaking landscape. Indeed, the territory hosts many remarkable natural sites, a high concentration of 3000+ meters summits (Mount Thabor, Galibier, Grand Casse, the needles of Arves, etc.), and exceptional wildlife.

Besides, the Maurienne is linked to the Vanoise National Park, which is the first French National Park. Access to the Vanoise is possible via the refuges north of the valley : refuge de Plan du Lac, refuge de Plan Sec, refuge de l’Orgère, etc. To the South and West, the valley is connected to Italy and to the Italian Park Gran Paradiso.

At the end of the valley, a connection to the Tarentaise, another famous alpine valley is possible through the col de l’Iseran by road or hiking trail.

Access to great mountain scenery

Hikers will love the Maurienne, as it gives access to some of the top mountain escapes in France. For example, many hiking trails lead to great mountain lakes: lac d’Ambin (2 683 m), Black and white lake of the Carro (2 753 m), Lac de la Partie (2 540m). One section of the GR5, which is the hiking trail crossing the Alps from North to South follow the valley from Modane until the Col de l’Iseran.

The largest cycling area in the world

The Maurienne valley leads to some of the most famous ‘cols’ of the Alps: col du Galibier, col du Télégraphe, col de la Croix de Fer, etc which made history of Tour de France. The local tourism board proudly announce that the Maurienne is the largest cycling area in the world. They offer an online interactive bird’s eye view of the different challenges awaiting the cyclists.

Baroque art and traditions

To enjoy the local traditions, find a locally-made Opinel – a famous French pocket knife with wood handle – and use it to cut a piece of Beaufort, a locally-made yellow cheese and an heritage of agricultural traditions.

Should you be tired of hiking or cycling, take a couple of hours to visit Bessans. This particular village is famous for being part of a group of baroque churches and for its strong traditions. Visit the chapel of Saint Antoine and its famous paintings to form your own opinion. Alternatively, you can visit Bonneval-sur-Arc, the last village of the valley, or the Eisseillon fortress, a range of 19^th century forts built by Italian (Sardinia Kingdom) to secure the access from French armies.

Access to the Maurienne

Easy access to the upper valley from Modane by car or train.

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